Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a worldwide network of cities cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city is no surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has perennially shaped its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a continued dialogue from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – little-known treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but note that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will motivate more people around the world to explore these narratives and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
